Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator

Exploring Probiotic Species for SIBO and Heart Health

Over the past few months, I’ve been diving deep into the science of probiotics and their potential to support gut health, particularly for conditions like SIBO (Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth) and cardiovascular disease. My focus has been on specific bacterial strains that have shown promising effects on both gut microbiota balance and metabolic health.

Dr. William Davis’ Perspective

Dr. William Davis, author of Wheat Belly and Undoctored, has long advocated for using specific probiotic species to restore gut health. In his research and clinical experience, he emphasizes the role of Lactobacillus reuteri in particular, which he incorporates into homemade yogurts. Davis believes that high-count, strain-specific probiotics can help modulate inflammation, improve immune function, and even support cardiovascular health. His approach focuses less on “perfectly set yogurt” and more on ensuring sufficient bacterial counts for therapeutic benefit—a concept that aligns with modern microbiome research.

In Wheat Belly, Davis highlights the negative effects of processed grains and sugar on gut microbiota and heart health, while Undoctored expands on personalized strategies for reversing chronic disease, including gut-targeted therapies like probiotic supplementation. His yogurt recipes are designed to deliver high concentrations of beneficial strains such as L. reuteri for daily therapeutic use.

My Research & Experimentation

Inspired by Dr. Davis, I began experimenting with L. reuteri, L. gasseri, and even Bacillus subtilis in various dairy media. My goal was to create a reliable method to cultivate these probiotics at home while maximizing their survival and potency. Throughout the process, I experimented with different milk types, cream ratios, and prebiotics like inulin, while closely monitoring pH and fermentation times. One clear takeaway was that traditional visual cues for yogurt texture were less important than ensuring adequate bacterial growth for therapeutic purposes.

Introducing the Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator

To help others replicate and optimize these probiotic-rich yogurts at home, I developed a Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator. This tool allows you to enter different amounts of whole milk, evaporated milk, cream, and milk powder, then calculates the fat, protein, and sugar content of your mixture. It also gives visual feedback if your composition falls within the optimal range for probiotic growth and palatability.

The calculator makes it easy to experiment safely with your yogurt base while ensuring that your final mix supports the growth of the strains you’re targeting. This tool is particularly useful for anyone following Dr. Davis’ protocols and aiming to produce therapeutic yogurts at home.

Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator

Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator
Version 1.6

🧪 Growth Medium Composition
▸ Macros
▸ Macros
▸ Macros
🧫 Fermentation Parameters

How to Use the Fermented Dairy Composition & CFU Estimator

This calculator helps you design a fermented dairy batch with the right fat, protein, and sugar levels to support probiotic bacteria growth — and then estimates how many colony-forming units (CFU) you’ll end up with after fermentation.

It was built with Australian home fermenters in mind. Unlike the US, Australia doesn’t have “half and half” — that familiar American product that sits halfway between milk and cream. Many probiotic yogurt recipes (particularly those following the L. Reuteri protocol popularised by Dr. William Davis) call for half and half as the base. Since we can’t buy it off the shelf here, the calculator lets you combine whole milk, cream, evaporated milk, and other ingredients to hit the same macro targets yourself.


The Two Sections

🧪 Growth Medium Composition

This is where you enter your ingredients. Each ingredient can be toggled on or off with its checkbox. When checked, you can enter the volume (in mL or grams for powder) and adjust the fat, protein, and sugar values to match the specific product you’re using — since these vary between brands.

Available ingredients:

  • Whole Milk
  • Evaporated Milk
  • Pouring Cream
  • Whole Milk Powder
  • Water
  • Prebiotic Fibre (Inulin or Potato Starch)

🧫 Fermentation Parameters

This is where you configure your bacteria strain, starting CFU, incubation time, and temperature. The calculator uses a logistic growth model — meaning growth accelerates early then slows as it approaches the carrying capacity of the medium, which is more realistic than simple exponential growth.


Target Ranges

After hitting Calculate, the composition results are colour coded:

  • 🟢 Green — within the optimal range
  • 🟡 Yellow — below optimal
  • 🟠 Orange — above optimal

The targets used are:

MacroOptimal Range
Fat9–12%
Protein3.5–5%
Sugar4–6%

These ranges are aimed at providing a rich substrate for probiotic bacteria while keeping sugar low enough to avoid feeding unwanted organisms.


Worked Examples

Example 1 — The Classic L. Reuteri Yogurt (Australian Style)

L. Reuteri is the most popular strain for home fermented yogurt, largely due to the work of Dr. William Davis whose protocol calls for a long 36-hour fermentation at body temperature to achieve very high CFU counts. His recipes typically use half and half as the base — which simply isn’t available in Australia.

The good news is that combining whole milk and pouring cream gets you right into the same fat range. Here’s a straightforward 1 litre batch:

IngredientAmount
Whole Milk700 mL
Pouring Cream (35% fat)300 mL

Fermentation settings:

  • Strain: L. Reuteri
  • Starting CFU: 10 billion
  • Time: 36 hours
  • Temperature: 37°C (use the Use Optimal button)

Result: ~11.5% fat, ~3.4% protein, ~3.9% sugar — sitting right in the optimal zone. L. Reuteri thrives in high-fat dairy and the 36-hour fermentation gives it plenty of time to reach a very high final CFU count.


Example 2 — L. Reuteri Large Batch with Evaporated Milk

For a thicker, more set yogurt with better body, adding evaporated milk boosts the protein without dramatically changing the fat profile. This is a great approach if you find the basic milk and cream version too thin.

IngredientAmount
Whole Milk2000 mL
Evaporated Milk384 mL
Pouring Cream600 mL

Fermentation settings:

  • Strain: L. Reuteri
  • Starting CFU: 10 billion
  • Time: 36 hours
  • Temperature: 37°C

Result: Fat lands around 10.8%, protein around 4.1%, sugar around 4.8% — all green. The higher protein content from the evaporated milk gives the yogurt a noticeably better texture while keeping everything in the optimal fermentation range. This is roughly the default batch the calculator opens with.


Example 3 — L. Casei Shirota Using Yakult® as Your Starter

L. Casei Shirota is the probiotic strain found in Yakult®, the small red-topped bottles available at Woolworths and Coles. Rather than sourcing a commercial starter powder, you can use a bottle of Yakult directly as your inoculant — it contains billions of live L. Casei Shirota cells and works very well as a starter culture, making it one of the most accessible and affordable ways to get started.

One 65 mL bottle of Yakult contains approximately 6.5 billion CFU, so use that as your starting CFU value in the calculator.

IngredientAmount
Whole Milk1500 mL
Evaporated Milk375 mL
Pouring Cream300 mL

Fermentation settings:

  • Strain: L. Casei Shirota
  • Starting CFU: 6.5 billion (one bottle of Yakult)
  • Time: 36 hours
  • Temperature: 37°C (use the Use Optimal button)

Result: L. Casei Shirota is a good sugar utiliser and handles dairy very well. After 36 hours you’ll end up with a mild, slightly tangy yogurt with a very high CFU count — at a fraction of the cost of commercial probiotic supplements.

Note that Yakult itself is quite high in sugar (about 11g per bottle), but this is actually a non-issue for two reasons. First, you’re diluting it across roughly 2 litres of dairy so the contribution to the starting sugar percentage is minimal. More importantly, L. Casei Shirota is a strong sugar fermenter — it will actively consume the sugars in the medium (including whatever came from the Yakult bottle) and convert them into lactic acid over the course of fermentation. By the time your 36 hours are up, the finished yogurt will have a significantly lower sugar content than the raw starting mix. The calculator shows the composition of the medium going in, not what comes out the other end.


Example 4 — B. Longum with Inulin for Prebiotic Support

B. Longum is a slower-growing strain but it is exceptionally good at fermenting prebiotic fibres — particularly inulin. Adding inulin to a B. Longum batch provides a significant substrate boost and supports the broader gut microbiome through short-chain fatty acid production during fermentation.

IngredientAmount
Whole Milk2000 mL
Evaporated Milk384 mL
Pouring Cream600 mL
Inulin30 g

Fermentation settings:

  • Strain: B. Longum
  • Starting CFU: 10 billion
  • Time: 36 hours
  • Temperature: 37°C (use the Use Optimal button)

Result: The inulin provides a 1.30× substrate boost for B. Longum — the largest fibre boost of any strain in the calculator. Despite being a slower divider, the extended fermentation time and the prebiotic advantage mean B. Longum still produces a high-CFU end product. Try comparing the result with and without inulin by toggling the amount between 0 and 30g to see the difference.


Tips

Use the “Use Optimal” button. Each bacteria strain has a different ideal temperature — L. Bulgaricus and S. Thermophilus prefer 42°C, while most Lactobacillus strains prefer 37°C. Clicking Use Optimal fills in the right temperature automatically. You can still override it manually if your incubator runs slightly warm or cool.

The recommended temperature is shown next to the label. Even before clicking the button, you’ll see the strain’s optimal temp displayed in green next to the Temperature field — handy as a quick reference.

Adjust the macro values to match your actual product. The default values are reasonable averages, but full-cream milk from Pauls vs. a home-brand can differ noticeably in fat content. Check the nutrition panel on your carton and update the fields accordingly for a more accurate result.

Prebiotic fibre only boosts CFU if you enter an amount. Selecting Inulin or Potato Starch from the dropdown reveals an amount field. If you leave it at zero, no boost is applied. Different strains respond differently — B. Longum gets the biggest lift from inulin (1.30×), while L. Gasseri also responds well (1.20×).

The CFU estimate is a model, not a lab result. It uses established growth parameters and a logistic growth curve, but real-world results will vary based on starter culture viability, actual incubator temperature consistency, and individual batch conditions. Use the numbers as a guide for comparing recipes and strains rather than as absolute values.


Understanding the CFU Results

After calculating, the fermentation results show:

  • Starting CFU — your inoculation amount
  • After X hrs — estimated total CFU at the end of incubation
  • Final CFU / mL — how concentrated the culture is
  • Doublings achieved — how many times the population doubled
  • CFU per 125 mL serving — a practical per-serve estimate
  • Temperature efficiency — how close your set temperature is to the strain’s optimal, expressed as a percentage

If your temperature is outside the viable range for the selected strain, the calculator will warn you and return zero growth.

DIY Keg Floating Dip Tube Mk3

Move over Mk2

In Mk2 version, the float was signficantly simplified however setting it up was difficult and I started to move away from the idea of using Oetiker clamps inside the keg (is it safe?)

MK3 would have to be the simplest design yet!

Mk3 Simple Float

Mk3 works as follows

  1. The same float from Mk1 & Mk2
  2. The same replacement gas diptube OR cut down your existing liquid diptube. However now you need another piece for the end of hose
  3. The same length of silicone tubing as Mk1 & Mk2 60cm
  4. A length of 316L TIG 1.6mm wire is bent to capture the flared end of the diptube and is anchored freely onto the float!

Now the float has an indentation/dimple in the side that is HEAVIER is pretty much irrelevant! You dont needs washers clamps etc. Just some hose, a float and some wire!

Parts Required

Stainless Steel Float https://alii.pub/6j2oin

Food grade Silicone hose (use 7×10) https://alii.pub/6j2o4u

The list above will probably contain more parts than you need to make one float. ..

UPDATE: I published this a long time ago. If you want a turnkey solution you can use this. Its a stainless steel ball with the hose and diptube as a kit.

https://alii.pub/6j2ofj

Results

A thing of beauty!

Right down to the very end!

Feedback

I would appreciate some feedback on this new design if you decide to build mk3…

I must say testing it was a pleasure…no more spurts and carry ons…straight clean pour to the end!

 

F-TPMS Fermentation Monitoring Part 1

About 2 months ago I saw Andreas Speiss talking about using TPMS sensors for monitoring his bottle carbonation. He was having to fabricate a cap that could accomodate the sensor. It got me thinking. Why can’t I just use the outboard sensor types with a valve stem and call it day?

So I decided to add some off the shelf EXTERNAL type TPMS sensors to my brewing kegs. I call it Fermentation Temperature Pressure Monitoring System or FTPMS. Yes…I like acronyms.

Some background if you require it….A TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) uses wireless temperature and pressure sensors on each valve stem to monitor and warn of out of bounds conditions namely over/under-pressure, over-temperature. They report back to a central controller with a display for temperature and pressure.

These measurements are highly useful in pressure fermentation or Grünschlauchen, not so much plastic fermenter type setup…

I bought the set of four because you get the display and receiver unit which I will hack in Part 2 to allow you to run more than 4 sensors.

I used an off the shelf tyre valve stem that was designed to fit to high quality alloy wheels rather than the push in rubber type.

These are made out of stainless steel. All you have to do is drill a 8mm diameter hole in the top of the keg lid and then fit this valve assembly.

Installation

I used a 90 degree brass motorcycle valve stem for mine. Similar to the one below:

The Schrader thread was a bit shite so I had to clean it up for the TPMS sensor to fit nicely. My advice is to use the stainless steel stem shown in this post.

The Result

Thats the Rear Left sensor fitted to Fermentation Keg 1. I have two fermentation kegs so I used R.L and R.R.

On the screen it is showing the telemetry:

As you can see the screen reports back the temperatures in C and the pressures in Bar.

Parts Required

You can convert up to 4 kegs with 1 kit.

4 sensor TPMS EXTERNAL SENSORS with Receiver

4X schrader valve stems

In part 2, I will be finding a way to run more than 4 sensors using a custom made Arduino based 433MHz receiver….

DIY Keg Floating Dip Tube Mk2

Move over Mk1

In Mk1 version, there was a filter. I got feedback that this was causing grief when it got blocked. Additionally the build cost was on par with the off the shelf Fermzilla float. Well, we can’t have a situation where DIY cost more in parts than the commercially available item!

Mk2 Simpler Float

Mk2 works as follows

  1. The same float from Mk1
  2. The same replacement gas diptube OR cut down your existing liquid diptube
  3. The same length of silicone tubing as Mk1
  4. Except now, the float is held in place by two 316L 8mm flat washers, held in place by 2 Oetiker clamps.
  5. Note, the Oetiker clamps are push fit on this 8mm tube since they are 7mm. DO NOT CRIMP the clamps as you will not be able to dismantle and clean the float.

Notice that the float has an indentation/dimple in the side that is HEAVIER. You need to face this side to the bottom. If your float doesn’t have an indentation, you can find the heavier side by placing the bare float in a jug of water.

This is the bottom side of the float. Leave about an inch of tube overhang.

This the top side of the float. Don’t make the fit tight as you want the float to rotate freely on the tubing. Again DO NOT CRIMP the Oetiker clamps.  In the photos it is apparent that I did clamp mine because they were oversized. I used 9.5mm Oetikers for the prototype as that is what I had on hand).

As you can see below, the float  sits with the diptube under the water level.

You can fine-tune the float by adding more washers to the bottom side if your float does not behave properly.

Parts Required

Stainless Steel Float http://ali.pub/229u9j

Food grade Silicone Tube 10mm OD 7mm ID http://ali.pub/229umy

8mm Keg Diptube Short/Gas http://ali.pub/229vui

316L Washers (need 2) http://ali.pub/3ru9v6

7-9mm Oetiker Clamps (need 2) http://ali.pub/3ru9r3

Note, the clamps are not crimped. The only reason you would crimp them slightly is to get a tight (interference) fit on the silicone tube. This will allow you to adjust / fine tune and more importantly clean your diptube float assembly.

The list above will probably contain more parts than you need to make one float. ..

Feedback

I would appreciate some feedback on this new design if you decide to build mk2…

UPDATE 18.10

Mk3 is ready and working better than ever and way cheaper!

http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube-mk3/

DIY Tandoori Oven

Tandoori Fired Meats

Need I say more? There is something absolutely wonderful about meats cooked on skewers in a tandoori oven. The high cooking temperatures (technically unachievable by most domestic ovens), coupled with the smoke of fats and liquids falling onto glowing charcoal makes for an amazing culinary experience.

Before I built my own, I used to frequent the restaurants that had their own tandoors. Most would be gas (propane) fired and not have that charcoal fired aroma.

Then I decided, how hard could it be? I noticed a whole bunch of videos on youtube and decided to harvest the best of the knowledge and insights and design and build my own.

My requirements

I noticed a lot of diy tandoors online were either too small, too inefficient or they were too large, heavy and fixed in place.

I decided I want:

  •  decent size where I can cook for 5-10 people
  • Efficiency with minimal heat loss
  • Safe materials (avoiding zinc plating and lead containing chinese terracotta pots)
  • Portability (low weight, low height, on wheels etc). I want to be able to transport to the homes of friends and family when required.

The Design (Tandoor meats technology)

I decided that the ultimate package for the tandoor is a 44 gallon drum and not zinc plated garbage cans.

I would use a terracotta liner but one fired from virgin clay and definitely not glazed.

The insulation would be lightweight, cost effective and efficient.

So here was the shortlist of materials:

  • A 44 gallon drum that was NOT used to hold toxic chemicals or oil based products)
  • A terracotta liner / large deep tapered pot fired / made locally to ensure its quality of materials and build
  • Vermiculite as the insulation
  • Fasteners
  • A set of casters to allow the drum to be rolled around
  • Various tools for metal working

The Drum

I scored a drum from a local warehouse for $10 which had been used to transport Propylene Glycol (food frade). It was the unlined type so it meant no plastic lining inside just bare metal. Score!

The first I did was wash it out and give it a good clean.

I measured it up to work out what sized liner/pot I would need and also how high I wanted this thing so as it could fit in the back of my stationwagon.

The Liner

After scouring Gumtree and then ringing a few places, I found a pot made by a local pot maker. It was perfect!

The pot was almost 1inch thick in the walls, 400mm at the widest point, 350mm wide at the narrowest and about 450mm tall.

I cut the base off using an angle grinder fitted with a masonary cutting blade.

I then needed a place for the coal to sit. I found a bird fountain at Bunnings Hardware.

I drilled a series of holes at the base using a 12mm masonary drill bit. DO NOT use the hammer setting as it will crack your birdbath!

Modifying the Drum

I flipped the drum upside down so as I can reuse the filler as a drain in case any liquid gets into the insulation area…

I cut the drum’s base off in a manner in which I would reattach it later. I then cut the drum down so as the total height with the trimmed lid was less than 600mm.

I then found a scrap motor fan housing and used that as the prop on the base to raise the birdbath (liner base) off the drum. This will allow the insulation to wrap around the base properly and allow the air to enter the tandoor for convection. Drill enough holes to allow ash to fall through and not block up.

Attach the wheels to the base. I scored the wheels of a recycled rear projection TV…seriously hardcore wheels for the height and size!

Fitting the liner

First I laid the birdbath inside.

Then I placed the pot upside down over the top.

The alignment was just perfect!

Insulation

I found the vermiculite at a local horticultural shop and bought two bags of it.

The stuff weighs nothing! I carefully poured it in and compacted it and kept adding until i could get no more in. I had some leftover but as I discovered 6 months later, the vermiculite had settled a bit so I topped it up.

I made a lid for the tandoor using a stainless steel drinks tray I found in a thrift shop and a wooden handle off an old file.

Breaking Bad

Being an avid Breaking Bad fan, I decided to put the ol’ Golden Moth Methylamine Barrel logo on it LOL.

Modifications and Result

I modified the cut off section (base) of the drum so as I could use it as a cover over the vermiculite. I also added a temperature gauge to the lid.

UPDATE

After 2 years of use. Everything is still ok.

Parts for the Project

Below are my affiliate links with Aliexpress for the parts used in the project. I’ve researched quality and price points for the parts. It would help me out at no extra cost to you if you purchase using the links below.

0 to 800F (450C) temperature gauge – http://ali.pub/2bdlxc

0 to 1000F (500C) temperature gauge – http://ali.pub/2bdnwi

 

DIY Keg Cleaning System

Last Call

If you use a dispensing keg by racking your cold crashed but unfiltered beer, you will end up with some trub at the bottom of the keg which when it comes time to  clean is a fairly simple task IF you have small enough hands and forearms.

Over the last 2 years I’ve been experimenting with dry hopping in the dispensing kegs amongst other additions and these additions can result in some stubborn stains/residues in the keg.

It can take a considerable amount of water sprayed in at high pressure to dislodge residues, a resource and time consuming process.

Cleaning In Place

Cleaning in Place (CIP) has been around for approximately 50 years, and is commonly used in hygiene critical industries, such Food, Beverage and Pharmaceutical, to clean a wide range of plant. CIP refers to the use of a mix of chemicals, heat and water to clean machinery, vessels or pipe work without dismantling plant. The process can be one shot, where everything goes to drain, or recovery, which recycles most of the liquid. Overall, CIP can be a very efficient way of cleaning.

I decided I would work with a recovery system which I can then pump out to drain.

The Design

I figured the setup would be connected to my Brewery’s wash area (large sinks and sprayer taps). Effectively I would need:

  • a CIP spray device that fits inside the keg
  • a pump that can create enough pressure to operate the CIP to an acceptable level
  • a way of timing the clean
  • a way of draining out the waste liquid
  • minimal connections / established connection methods to minimise complexity and cost

The Parts Required

Below are the parts you will need to build one keg cleaning system. You can easily adapt my design to more than one keg by adding more lines.

THE CIP spray device

I found this nice CIP rotating ball with a DN15 female (1/2BSP) thread.

This is CIP head I used. A really good price too.

http://ali.pub/2974r1

THE PUMP

Mains water pressure here is around 120-130psi. The pump below is economical, runs off 12V and has DN15 male fittings (standard water fittings in Australia).

Specifications:

  • 12VDC @ 7A (Approximately 80W)
  • 5.5Litres/min flow rate
  • 0.9Mpa / 130.5psi / 9 bar maximum pressure

I got the pump from here. It was the cheapest price I could find. The store had a 48% off sale (so wait for that).

http://ali.pub/2974m6

IMPORTANT: Make sure you ask for the DN15 version (Type D) of inlet and outlet. OR you can replace the braided hoses with clear PVC tubing to suit the M18x1.5 stock thread with barb.

If you want to use the M18x1.5 version, you will need these adapters:

http://ali.pub/2b6269

Then you can use the normal garden style disconnects:

12V 10A Power supply

I used a power supply designed for LEDs slightly overrated to the requirement to ensure longevity.

I got my adapter here. It comes in various plug configurations. Make sure you pick the right one for your region and to suit the pump’s DC input.

http://ali.pub/2974zl

The Keg Lid

In my design, you take off your existing keg lid and fit this keg lid which has the CIP cleaning head attached to it. The Lid is optional if you wish to keep the costs down but this way you can run the keg in any direction for cleaning.

 

 

The lid will need to be modified to adapter the CIP head to a bulkhead connector to attach to the output of the pump.

Options:

Used Keg Lid. If you want to save some money get this used keg lid which you will modify anyway.

http://ali.pub/29759i

Brand new keg lid.

http://ali.pub/2975ao

Various Bits

You will need the following bits to complete this setup.

Cornelius Keg liquid disconnect

Barbed version is acceptable here as  you will be connecting hose directly to it. I use these disconnects and they are a damn sight better than the cheap rubbish out there and also cheaper than the original Cornelius ones http://ali.pub/2975zd

Stainless steel DN15 male to union

This is to connect the CIP head to the pump’s output line. http://ali.pub/297666

UPDATE: I have changed this to a nylon version which has orings. I find this will seal the union better than stainless steel. However note, if you are running high temperatures stick to stainless steel!

http://ali.pub/297bc9

Stainless steel DN15 to 8mm barb

This is to adapt the cornelius disconnect barb to the DN15 hose to the inlet of the pump.

http://ali.pub/2976go

DN15 Stainless steel braided water hoses

I recommend you use mains water pressure rated hoses for this job as you are dealing with high pressure and possibly temperature. This was a bargain. You get four hoses for the price… http://ali.pub/2976bm

Choose your lengths to suit your setup. I used 60cm versions. You will need two of them (Pump inlet and outlet).

Mains Timer Switch (up to 60mins)

I used this timer switch to let the cleaning go for the time I need it to go for without manual intervention required.

Specs:

  • Plug Type: AU Plug but choose the one you need for your setup
  • Voltage: AC 220V/50Hz (Again, choose what you need)
  • Max power: 2200W (plenty for this setup)
  • Setting Time: 2-60 Minutes (plenty for washing a keg)

http://ali.pub/2978bd

Sundries

You will also need a short length of 6mm ID 8mm OD beer dispense hose (hard clear stuff NOT the soft PVC/silicone). The length is up to you but I recommend you keep it short as its not that flexible. I kept the length to 100mm; enough to adapt the disconnect to the 8mm barb to male DN15 adapter.

You may require some plumber’s teflon tape to connect the DN15 male union to the CIP head.

You will also require a step drill to 19mm/20mm to drill out the keg lid.

Putting it together

 

  1. Drilling out the lid. You may choose to retain the safety relief valve and drill a completely separate hole but in this setup you do not need it so I drilled out the safety valve recess to 19mm/20mm so that the DN15 union fits through snugly. NOTE. You do not want this loose.
  2. Use thread sealer and fit on the CIP head to the keg lid.
  3. Keg Lid modification Done. NOTE: It can be a little bit tricky to get this to fit into your keg but once you figure out the motion it will easy to remove/fit.
  4. Connect one of the DN15 hoses to the other side of the DN15 union on the keg lid.
  5. Connect the other end of this hose to the pump’s output side.
  6. Fit the beer hose to the disconnect. Note that no hose clamp is required.
  7. Fit the other end of the hose to the barb end of the DN15/Barb adapter.
  8. Connect the remaining stainless steel hose to the DN15 barb.
  9. Connect the other end of this hose to the pump’s inlet.
  10. Youre done!

You should have a setup as shown below in the diagram.

I hope you will enjoy putting this cleaning system together for your setup!

Updated Design 2018

I ended with the M18 version of the pump. Here is my new configuration:

Parts required

DN15 (1/2″) MALE to DN20 (3/4″) FEMALE Adapter http://ali.pub/2cuval

DN20 (3/4″) FEMALE to 16mm quick connect MALE http://ali.pub/2ew6yp

16mm quick connect FEMALE to 1/4 barb http://ali.pub/2cuvum

16mm quick connect FEMALE to 13mm (1/2″ ID) hose http://ali.pub/2cuvxx

OPTIONAL: Adapter for QC. If you want to extend pipes. http://ali.pub/2cuw18

DIY Keg Floating Dip Tube !UPDATED Sept 2019!

Keg Residues

I’ve been homebrewing beer for the last 15 years. I started (like most) with a plastic fermenter / bucket and used hopped extracts with adjunct brewing sugars and then bottling with priming sugar.

Over the last 2 years I’ve migrated fully to kegs and I can say I don’t miss the bottling aspect of homebrewing! The only thing I do find is that beer that is dispensed towards the end of the keg tends to be extremely clear and refined.

So I asked the question, is it possible to draw from the top of the keg rather than the bottom and yet still be able to draw the full amount?

The answer came in the form of a float.

Plastic Fantastic

I am generally not a big fan of plastic items in contact with my food (yes beer is food). However I am a fan of and actively practice harm minimisation. After all we live in a world where economics rather than welfare dictates the nature of materials that come in contact with food. Harsh but true.

I am a big fan of food/surgical/marine grade stainless steel. Namely the 316 grade. It is highly non reactive in corrosive environments and does not leech out any estrogenic compounds. It could be leeching out chromium but hey what can I say; harm minimisation…

Float the idea

Here is a list of requirements I wrote up to help me design and build a device that could allow me to reduce sediment and improve clarity of the beer I was tapping off the keg:

  • Needs to fit easily through the opening of keg
  • Has to float in beer with ease
  • Must connect to the liquid port of the keg
  • It should be able to be removed for cleaning
  • No permanent modification to keg
  • Food safe materials only
  • Low cost of course 🙂 as I have 8 kegs to modify

So I can see I will require:

  1. A float of some kind
  2. A flexible tube that can connect to the liquid port and the float itself
  3. A method of stopping any sediment from entering the tube
  4. A method of weighing down the end that draws the liquid to ensure its always submerged.

The components

the float

I found this nice float made out of stainless steel. It appears to be used for level sensors in potable drinking water tanks.

The tubeS

Silicone tubing is probably the safest material from a corrosion/leeching perspective for beer (acidic). You will need some 8mm tubing and a small amount of 10mm tubing to hold the filter inside the float.

the filter

A filter like this is very useful in stopping any sediment/trub from being drawn into the liquid port. Its not a superfine mesh so its unlikely to block up. The mesh is made out of stainless steel and can be cleaned up easily. These filters are sold as “wine filters”.

the counterweight

The simplest counter weight I can think of is to use a stainless steel bolt attached to the removable end of the filter. To install the counterweight, drill an 8mm hole in the endcap and install the bolt and nut so that the thread is INSIDE the filter as shown below.

 

Make sure you use 316 grade and not 304!

Replacement short Diptube

You can choose to cut your dip tube to attach the tubing but I didn’t want to permanently modify my kegs. The replacement diptube is actually used as the gas tube.

The Result

It will take you all but 15 minutes to make this.

Cut the tube to the suitable length for your keg. What you want is for the float to lay flat and the tube is just enough for that to happen. This simulates an empty keg scenario.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

I received some useful feedback from a reader recently so I’ve created this section to help with the build.

  1. The Filter has a removable bottom which aids in fitting the counterweight 
  2. To allow the filter to stay with the float you will need a 15mm section of 10mm diameter silicone hose fitted over the dip tube hose at the neck of the filter.

Sources for the parts in this project

You can help me out greatly by using the links below to purchase the parts in this project. There is no extra cost to you. In fact I can assure you of the seller’s complicity in successful orders and the pricing is fantastic.

Stainless Steel Float http://ali.pub/229u9j

Food grade Silicone Tube 8mm http://ali.pub/229umy

Food grade Silicone Tube 10mm http://ali.pub/229umy

Filters http://ali.pub/229uvp

Counterweight 316 M8x25mm Bolt http://ali.pub/2gmxjl

Counterweight 316 M8 Nut http://ali.pub/229v60

8mm Keg Diptube Short/Gas http://ali.pub/229vui

UPDATE: Off the shelf solution

I recently found that the Fermentasaurus SS Float assembly is available from Aliexpress.

It will do the job as long as you get a 8mm Keg short dip tube to replace the existing dip tube and just attach this SS float assembly to the supplied tube.

You will need:

Fermentasaurus Gen 1 SS Float + 60cm Silicone tubing: http://ali.pub/31196g

8mm Keg Diptube Short/Gas: http://ali.pub/229vui

Update September 2019

I have come up with a simpler solution for my fellow tight arse aussie brewers.

Check out my latest DIY Keg Floating Dip Tube Mk2

Brewie: Sniffing the Control Board UART

Sticky Fingers

Being a hacker at heart means you just can’t leave things well enough alone. I really wanted to see if I could see how the touch screen control system software interfaced with the Brewie’s control board. Basically how the software tells the machine’s parts to work a recipe…

Incidentally, the Brewie’s control board is based around the ATMEGA2560. Could it be they are running an Arduino base in this?

The control board is nicely laid out with their own DC DC converted 5V rail from the 12V board supply. They are using MC33063A Buck converter ICs. Pretty standard stuff.

Datasheet here: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/mc33063a-q1.pdf 

A bunch of control outputs driven by mosfets with protection diodes.

An op-amp circuit to provide weight sensor inputs to the micro.

The money shot

The prize here is the Connector Marked SERIAL0. The pinout of SERIAL0 is shown below:

It is obvious that the Touch screen control system which runs the Brewie software and is connected to the internet is able to flash a new firmware on the ATMEGA2560 since the DTR/Reset pin is exposed to it.

Well simple enough we can sniff this using another ATMEGA2560 or in my case an Arduino MEGA board.

The right connections

I soldered directly onto the pins of the Brewie board to allow me to have a connector outside the machine.

I now have a “DIAGNOSTIC” port on my Brewie that is sealed from moisture ready to use whenever I want to. I have plans to build a debug screen that allows me to see the raw data represented as more intuitive visuals compared to the crappy touch screen software…Sorry Brewie…it really does suck although its nice to see you are slowly but surely ironing out all the bugs…

The pinout connection is up to you but if you want to use my sketch then follow the pin configuration below:

The Sketch

I wrote a quick sketch that allows me to dump the Brewie’s “Conversation” to Serial output. I figured out that the communications are happening at a baud rate of 115200.

Download the Sketch  BrewieUARTSniffer.ino

Sample Output

It’s alive! I could now watch the Brewie’s conversation as it prepares a recipe.  The Brewie control board sends data every second or so in a fixed format with fields separated by TAB characters.

Download a log I captured: brewie-log-20171112-1900.log

Example at the start:

-----------------------------------------------------
Brewie Control Board UART Sniffer V1.0
Written by DrGus
Copyright 2017 DrGus
-----------------------------------------------------
Rst Brewie Control Board Reset!
Tx Brewie v1.0
Tx Copyright Brewie 2016
Rst Brewie Control Board Reset!
Rst Brewie Control Board Reset!
Tx #Brewie v1.0
Tx Copyright Brewie 2016
Tx Water level nullpoint: 333142
Tx -1 0 V5 89 0.0055075451 85.0000000000 85.0000000000 850.0000000000 850.0000000000 0 0 0 460 0 480 0 0 83 85.0000000000
Tx -1 0 V5 161 0.0099630868 30.8750000000 34.3750000000 308.0000000000 343.0000000000 0 0 0 460 0 480 0 0 45 30.0000000000
Tx -1 0 V5 251 0.0155325140 30.8750000000 34.3750000000 308.0000000000 343.0000000000 0 0 0 460 0 480 0 0 45 30.0000000000 

...and so on.

NOTE: The Rx, Rst and Tx prefixes are added by me to allow me to know which direction the information is going in. It is not present in the Brewie communications.

Analysing the data format

The data format appears to be fairly simple. I will provide the fields once I have reverse engineered it.

Example of a data sentence sent by the control board to the Touch Screen software. I picked this entry as it has some “rich” data in it.

1 199 60 0 V5 64983 5.1403689000 30.5625000000 23.9375000000 314.0000000000 251.0000000000 0 0 0 460 0 328 0 0 843 P103 2 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 90 5 0 0 1 29.5000000000

Field NumberFunction/Description
1Recipe Step/Increment. Default 0 or -1
2Time in seconds since the recipe started
3Time in seconds since the last step change or current Step Time
4Countdown time in seconds for a step to complete
5Firmware Version Number
If a prefix appears, its:
P103,V5 <- asking for next step
E101,V5 <- An error has occured
6Weight Raw value (Raw Water Level)
7Weight in kg (Water Level)
8Mash Tank Temperature in Degrees Centigrade
9Boil Tank Temperature in Degrees Centigrade
10Mash Tank Temperature as Centidegrees-Centigrade
11Boil Tank Temperature as Centidegrees-Centigrade
12Hall 1 RPM - Mash Pump
13Boil Pump
14Pump+Valve State
1->Pump ON
2->Pump ON+Mash to Boil Valve Open
15Hall 2 RPM
16Pump+Valve State
17Unknown
18Valve State
19Valve State
20Unknown
21Command Echo. When the Touch screen board sends a command to the controller, the controller echos it back in this field.
Default: blank
22System Temperature in Degrees Centigrade. There is a DS18B20 temperature sensor attached to the tray where the control board is fitted.

Analysing the command format

The command format also appears to be fairly simple. Below are the Brewie commands I have identified thus far. I will be analysing the structure soon to provide the functions of each field.

P80 12641.7 0 0.842726 1.22634

Command P80… It appears when the touch screen system first communicates with the control board

Command P101 “Step Init” So P101 <step count>

P103 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 0 1 0 0 0 
P103 1 0 0 0 0 540 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1440 3 0 0 0 
P103 2 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 90 5 0 0 1
P103 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 30 1 0 0 0 
P103 4 0 1 0 640 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 2 0 1 0 
P103 5 0 1 0 640 700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 900 6 0 1 0
P103 6 0 1 0 700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 
P103 7 0 0 1 0 700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 600 6 0 0 1 
P103 8 0 0 1 0 700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 3 0 0 1 
P103 9 0 1 1 700 700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 255 0 600 6 2 1 1 
P103 10 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 4 0 1 0 
P103 11 0 0 0 0 980 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 300 6 0 0 0 
P103 12 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 4 0 1 0 
P103 13 0 0 0 0 980 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 300 6 0 0 0 
P103 14 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 4 0 1 0 
P103 15 0 0 0 0 980 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 300 6 0 0 0 
P103 16 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 4 0 1 0 
P103 17 0 0 0 0 980 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 300 6 0 0 0 
P103 18 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 0 180 4 0 1 0 
P103 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1800 7 0 0 0 
P103 20 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 300 6 3 0 1 
P103 21 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 300 6 3 0 1 
P103 22 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 255 0 180 6 3 0 1 
P103 23 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 255 0 120 6 3 0 1 
P103 24 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 255 0 120 6 0 0 1 
P103 25 0 0 0 0 230 0 0 0 0 1 255 0 0 255 0 1380 10 0 0 1 
P103 26 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 600 8 0 0 0

Command P103 … is the “Write Step” Command.

P103 <index> <inlet> <mashingvalve> <boilingvalve>  <mashing temp> <boiling temp>  <hop 1> <hop 2> <hop 3> <hop 4> <cooling> <fan> <outlet> <mashing pump> <boiling pump> <water level> <time> <condition> <auxCondition> <mashing One Way> <boiling One way>

Command P200 is “Start Brew”

Command P201… is “Pause Brew”

Command P202…is “Continue Brew”

Command P204  is “Next Step”

Command P999 tells the control board to STOP

Serial Logging to File

For those wondering how I captured the Serial log to file, I used a terminal window in Ubuntu.

Using this command:

(stty raw; cat > brewie-log-20171112-1900.log) < /dev/ttyUSB0

Sniffer Cable

If you don’t wish to solder directly to the board, you can make up an interfacing cable that has a Molex KK 2.54 Male socket and female plug with wires that extend out to an LED type connector as shown below.

If you want these connectors you can buy them using the link below as it helps me out without costing you anything extra.

http://ali.pub/20opbg

You can then create an external connection point via this cable set. These come in a pair (5pins female and male) pre-terminated for ease and are IP66 rated.

You can buy them using the link below as it helps me out without costing you anything extra.

http://ali.pub/20opva

 

Brewie: Adding an additional inlet for filtered water

Brewie B20 is a fully automatic all-grain wort producing machine. It can do up to 22L batches although its great for 19L. The four hop additions are automatic however you can keep going if you manually change the hops.

My Brewie Arrives

I recently became the owner of a Brewie Automatic Brewing Machine. The unit arrived in a well packed box with all the necessary items for creating the wort for all grain beer recipes.

One Fitting to Rule them All

One thing I immediately noticed and didn’t like was the fact that you could not choose the sources of water for wort chilling vs the wort itself. I wasn’t about to make my beer out of tap water and I also don’t want to waste filtered RO water for the chilling process. So I hacked it.

Bits you will need

You will need the following items to allow your Brewie to have two separate water inlets. The existing inlet is converted to only supply water to the chiller. A new inlet is created to supply filtered water to the brewing process circuit.

12vdc DN15 solenoid

The Brewie’s existing water distribution is achived via a single inlet DN20, dual solenoid valve that feeds the chiller circuit and the tank fill circuit.

The solenoid below has a DN15 (1/2″ BSP) thread inlet and a DN15 (1/2″ BSP) thread outlet. It has a 12Vdc coil with two spade terminals. These specifications are important for our modifications.

You can buy this solenoid on Aliexpress using my link as it helps me out without any extra cost to you.

http://ali.pub/20ka04

DN15 to 12mm barb adapter

This adapter goes onto the OUTLET of the solenoid. Note DN15 is 1/2″ BSP. Since we will be using the Brewie’s existing hose we need the barb to be 12mm.

You can buy this adapter on Aliexpress using my link as it helps me out without any extra cost to you.

http://ali.pub/31bc63

DN15 to 1/4″ QUICK FIT adapter

This adapter goes onto the INLET of the solenoid. Note DN15 is 1/2″ BSP. If you want to use a straight version of this adapter that is fine too.

You can buy this adapter on Aliexpress using my link as it helps me out without any extra cost to you.

http://ali.pub/20kacr

TOOLS REQUIRED
  1. Step drill bit 20mm hole required
  2. Drill machine
  3. Screwdrivers (Phillips)
  4. Pliers (to remove hoseclamps)
  5. Scissors (to cut hose)
Other Bits

You may think you need hose clamps but you don’t. Because we are removing a pipe from the Brewie there will the right amount of hose clamps to do the job.

Making the Modification

WARNING

Make sure the machine is FULLY DRAINED of liquids 
and the power has been DISCONNECTED before proceeding.

You will need to lay the machine on its front side / back side and then proceed to remove the bottom cover. Basically unscrew the four black feet and remove all of the phillips head screws EXCEPT the screws holding the fans in place.

You can choose to disconnect the fans from the Brewie Control Board or just leave them connected.

The next stage is to remove the hoses connected to the water inlet solenoids.

You should then remove the existing solenoid assembly and take note of the markings. My unit’s chiller solenoid wires were marked as “C”.

“14” Wires are the for the water inlet solenoid.

Re-route the “14” wires to the centre of the unit where the hop tanks are. You will need to undo some cable clips to do this.

Move the “C” wires from the existing solenoid to the other solenoid. We are doing this to move the chiller input solenoid to the back now.

Remove the backing plate shown below:

Drill a 20mm hole near the power cord inlet. This is where the new DC solenoid will meet the outside world as shown below.

Reassemble the backing plate and fit the solenoid into place. Plug in the rerouted solenoid control wires into this solenoid.

Route the hose in the following manner and secure using the left over hose clamps.

NOTE: There is a check valve on the Tee piece where the hose connects…make sure it is in the right direction if you need to remove it.

That’s it you’re done. Put everything back together and give the machine a test run. You will now be able to have a separate water inlet for your filtered water that is only used for making wort. Straight tap water is used to chill the wort…

Build your own Searzall head for under $10

Sears All

Well as it gets more difficult to source a Searzall torch head; the item has been unavailable for a while now even from Amazon….Amazingly the price isn’t exactly cheap….so I said fark it… Im building one.

Ok what do I need? Lets examine the unit itself…

 

It would appear that effectively its a radiant heat device. The “high temp mesh” is probably some stainless steel mesh that does not corrode and acts as the radiator.

Ok well this looks easy enough to build?

Analysis?

What would it take to build one?

  • A adapter that allows the head to float off the torch body to reduce the heat soak; this can be done using 316L stainless steel filler rod 1.6mm
  • A mesh  or series of meshes designed to sit at the edge of the flame envelope
  • A way of channeling the heat through the mesh

DIY Route

As I see it, you need a stainless steel chamber that is suspended from the torch head to prevent heat moving back into the torch. The front of the chamber needs to have mesh that is capable of handling the heat.

EDIT: If you want to create insulation, you could NEST two of the chambers; a smaller one inside the larger one separated by high temperature ceramic/glass wool.

Medium Chocolate Powder dispenser

I found a medium sized chocolate duster that is used for coffee art. The size of the medium unit is almost on par with the Searzall unit.

  • 6cm diameter
  • 8cm tall
  • Medium size

Available from Aliexpress. Please use my link below as it helps me out at no extra cost to you. Make sure you get the MEDIUM SIZE.

 

All you have to do is drill a 20mm hole in the base large enough to allow the flame from the torch to not heat the dispenser itself.

Here are a list of affiliate links for this shaker. Your support benefits me without extra costs to you.

Source 1: http://ali.pub/2h2bjd 

Source 2: http://ali.pub/2h2bqr

Source 3: http://ali.pub/2h2bqy

Source 4: http://ali.pub/2h2brq

STAINLESS MESH

You can get this Mesh online. The size/grade you are after is “30”.

You can get it on Aliexpress. Please use my link below as it helps me out at no extra cost to you. Make sure you get the SIZE 30. This is the size that worked best for me.

Also make sure you get enough to make plenty of spare screens for your searing tip. As intially while you set this thing up you may burn them up.

Take a sharp kitchen scissors and cut circles to suit the powder dispenser. You want the fit to be fairly tight. For my tip I used 2 screens together as per Searzall. I also left the original screen in the dispenser but you can choose to remove it.

Source 1: http://ali.pub/20k7lz

Source 2: http://ali.pub/2h2bvf

Source 3: http://ali.pub/2h2by5

 

Stainless Steel TIG Welding wire 1.6mm

I have plenty of TIG filler rods around. Why not use it as the frame for our torch head?

 

Basically bend into shape and tack weld to the dispenser. Bend the wires up toward the hole of the dispenser. Leave some excess so you can fine tune it to fit your torch adapter (next item).

DIY TORCH ADAPTER: length of ALUMINIUM MACHIning round

A short length of aluminium 25mm diameter by 25mm long in which a bore to suit your torch tip can be made with a lathe or a drill if you are careful. For my torch it was 15mm so I bored a hole using a 5/8″ (15.8mm) drill bit.

You will need to tap a thread for a grub screw to attach the head to your torch.

Additionally 3 holes need to be drilled in the side of this aluminium to the diameter of the wire / filler rod being  used…

the result

Well I must say for a few hours work it was worth it. It works like a dream….

Say goodbye to the ol “Torch Taste” and enter a level of culinary excellence worthy of a Michelin Star kitchen…